Milky Way Over River Road

FM 170 River Road, Big Bend Region, Texas

If someone asked me to describe Big Bend in a single scene, this would be close.

FM 170, known simply as River Road, runs between Lajitas and Presidio along the Rio Grande. It’s often called the most scenic drive in Texas, and that reputation isn’t exaggerated. The road rises and falls with the terrain, revealing wide desert basins one moment and tight canyon walls the next.

I’ve spent a lot of time out here. It’s accessible enough that you don’t need a full expedition to experience it, but wild enough that it still feels like you're exploring. Down below, the Rio Grande carves through the canyons and valleys, lined with bands of green vegetation that feel almost improbable in the middle of the Chihuahuan Desert. Above it, volcanic cliffs and layered rock formations rise in steep, fractured walls.

On this night, a prickly pear cactus clung to the edge of the overlook, its pads catching just enough light to separate from the darkness. The Milky Way stretched across the sky, arching above the canyon and river bend. The river itself turned into a pale ribbon, guiding the eye through the frame. I chose this frame as years before I shot this same scene at sunrise and I wanted to have a day/night paring. You can see the sunrise shot here: Along The River Road

This stretch of road doesn’t require a grueling hike or complicated logistics. You park, walk to the edge for a short climb, and the landscape opens up in front of you. For me, that’s part of its beauty. It offers a full Big Bend experience without barriers. Desert floor, river corridor, volcanic cliffs, and a night sky that still feels untouched.

Context and Landscape

FM 170 follows the Rio Grande along the western boundary of Big Bend Ranch State Park, connecting the small communities of Lajitas and Presidio. The route traces the river as it separates Texas from Mexico, winding through a landscape shaped by volcanic activity, tectonic uplift, and long-term erosion.

The canyon walls visible here are part of a complex geologic history that includes ancient lava flows and sedimentary layers exposed by millions of years of weathering. The region sits within the Chihuahuan Desert, one of the most biologically diverse deserts in North America.

The Rio Grande brings life to an otherwise arid landscape. Cottonwoods, willows, and thick riparian vegetation line the riverbanks, forming a green corridor that contrasts sharply with the surrounding desert slopes covered in creosote, sotol, lechuguilla, and prickly pear cactus.

This area also benefits from some of the darkest skies in the continental United States. Far from major cities, the Milky Way becomes visible to the naked eye during the right season, and long exposures reveal layers of dust lanes and star clouds arcing across the horizon.

River Road is accessible, but it remains raw. There are no manicured viewpoints or heavy development. Just pavement, open desert, and a canyon that feels older than the border it now defines.